Выбор фабрики при выборе бренда

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Elgringo
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Хорошая статейка какие фабрики смотреть при выборе часов.

1. Rolex
Submariner

126610LN, LV & all variants

3235 movement: VSF, Clean also makes a good sub as well but be warned about fakes. Joker is a new factory that seems to be good too.

2836, 2824 movements: GMF/BP are good.

116610LN, LV & all variants:

3135 movement: VSF, ZF, JVS and VVSF are good, as is Clean (but there are fakes of Clean).

124060, 114060 (no date): VSF, Clean, BPF/GMF, ROF

Two tone and RG subs (i.e. 116613LB): VSF, Clean, GMF, ARF

Daytona

Special note: Noob Daytona v4 was the best awhile ago, but are now closed.

All Daytona models:

White dial ceramic bezel: Clean v1, Clean v2, BTF in that order

Black dial ceramic bezel: BTF

ARF has gen-like thickness (slightly thicker), but the subdials that would count hours and minutes while the chrono is working do NOT function. If you don’t use chrono often, or want a different style than what Clean has to offer, go for this one.

GMT Master II

PEPSI 126710BLRO, 116710BLRO: Clean Factory, GMF v6 (get with VR3186 movement if you can)

BATMAN/BATGIRL 126710BLNR, 116710BLNR: Clean, VRF, ARF (best insert, movement might be unstable)

116710LN: Clean, VRF

Rootbeer: GMF with VR3186

GMT Master I: BPF

GMT Master 6542: RBF (only available via Puretime for some reason), may be out of stock now.

Explorer II 216570 – All models: GMF/BP ask for VR3186 if available

Explorer I 214270: BPF

Two-tone Explorer I 124273: EWF

Airking 116900: GMF (904L), BP (316L)

Milgauss 116400GV:

Blue: ARF or BPF

Black: BPF

Yachtmaster:

226659: VSF, 3EF, JVS/VVSF.

116622: ARF

116655 (Rose gold): VRF

126655 (Rose gold): EWF

268622 37mm: ARF

Datejust 36 – All models:

Decorated 3235: ARF. ARF has good dials, but date font can be too bold (v3 might be fixed now) and the crystal lacks enough AR coating on the cyclops.

2824: GMF is well executed overall, gold plating does not cover the side of the midlinks/endlinks, but the date font is better overall. There are a few other factories in the 36mm space, and GMF and ARF do not cover all dial variants. Take your time and look around and compare to gen

New 2021 & 2022 dial variants: GMF or BP.

Datejust 41 – All models:

3235 Clone movements: VSF, Clean

2824: ZF, ARF, GMF and BP in that order

New 2021 & 2022 dial variants: GMF or BP.

Special note: VSF made great DJ41s but are hard to get

DayDate 40 & 36 – All models: BPF, GMF

SkyDweller – all models: Noob v2. Has low beat movement, and other issues with the movement not being like gen, but it’s the best we’ve got.

Datejust 28 – all models: GMF

Oyster Perpetual: EWF all models. GMF also good.



2. Patek Philippe
Nautilus

5711 all color dials – All models: PPF v4 best overall factory but has a fat bezel. 3KF v2 has a good movement but small date font. OVERALL BEST NAUTILUS IN GENERAL is the PPF 5711.

Iced out Nautilus – R8 factory. Very well done. DM v2 is also well done and differently styled (baguette bezel)

5712 (moonphase date) – PPF v2. All functions are the same. Excellent rep.

5726 (triple calendar) – PPF (now ZF)

5980 Chronograph – I cannot recommend any good model. All have poor date font, too thick and not done very well. TWF, BPF and a few others are in this space.

7010 Ladies 33mm – PF. Overall well done, quartz movement.

7118 Ladies 35mm – PF. Very well done.

Aquanaut

5067 ladies 35mm aquanaut – PPF. Thin, quartz, but gen like.

5164 Travel Time – GRF v2. Too thick compared to gen, time zone functionality does not work. Gray dial and rose gold model are the only good options here.

5165 37mm – All models ZF. Excellent rep as well.

5167 40mm – All models: ZF Factory best overall factory, despite the “5” flaw (the line of the grenade pattern extends below the lower left of the 5 numeral, unlike gen). 3KF has a clone movement but machining is not as nice as ZF. OVERALL BEST AQUANAUT REP IN GENERAL is the ZF.

5168 42mm Blue and Green – ZF. Blue dial isn’t quite as nice as gen, green dial and strap misses the mark compared to gen. Overall best execution though.

5968 Chronograph – OMF. Very thick, overall not recommended unless you like the look.

Calatrava

5077 – Notre Dame & Bhutan enamel craftsman dials – FLF Factory

5088 – FLF Factory

5089 Azulejos enamel craftsman dial – FLF Factory

5119 – TW Factory

5120 – TW Factory. Very nice execution.

5123 – TW Factory. Overall decent execution.

5196 sub seconds – AIF.

5296 (open caseback) – All models: ZF Factory. OVERALL BEST CALATRAVA IN GENERAL

5297G (diamond bezel) – ZF Factory

5153 (officer’s caseback, smaller case) – All models: ZF Factory

5227 (officer’s caseback, lacquer dial) – All models: ZF Factory. OVERALL BEST CALATRAVA IN GENERAL

6007 – ZF Factory. Dial and strap color are not as dark as gen.

7112 – KGF. Decent execution, not amazing.

Grand Complications

4968 Ladies moonphase – KGF.

5070 – There is a rep, unsure of the factory. Not all versions are in stock though.

5205 Triple calendar moonphase – GRF v2 or KMF. Both are not great compared to gen, honestly, but look fine enough.

5396 – GRF for all models.

Known issues: sunken date disc, smaller day and month font than gen.

5524 Travel Time – GRF v2. Get the blue textured dial with brown strap, but the GMT hand is fixed on a 24hr loop, and the inner circle of that hand should be blue and not white. time zone switching is faux. Dial is not as nice as gen, but overall nice try and relatively thin.

6102 Celestial map – TZF. Looks good, but functions nothing like gen. Not recommended overall unless you love the look.

NOTE: Patek has almost never put a tourbillon in a watch and had it visible from the dial side. They have for a select few references a long time ago.



3. Audemars Piguet
15500 41mm – ZF

15400 41mm – ZF just released new clone movement and good dial (12/2021)

15450 37mm – JF

15202ST 39mm ultra thin – XF has thinner hand base, ZF has better dial color. Choose according to your preferences they are both great. XF is no longer available.

15202IP – ZF, XF (no longer available), BF

15202 green dial and diamond variants – BF v2

16202 – not available yet

15703 & 15710 42mm Offshore: ZF and JF are overall similar enough.

Note: colored variants of these models will be from JF or BPF

15720 42mm Offshore: all 3 variants – BF Factory

67540 Ladies Offshore 37mm: unknown factory, but a high quality rep is out there with real diamonds. Ask your TD.

Royal Oak Tourbillon – R8 Factory

JF made a good ultra-thin tourbillon (but still ~11mm)

26579 Annual Calendar – ZP factory

26331 Chronograph – BF and OMF, but none are great.

Open work tourbillon – R8 factory

77350 34mm Royal Oak (ladies) – 8F

Royal Oak Offshore 44mm: JF for nearly all models



4. Vacheron Constantin
Overseas Ultra-thin 2000V: XF for all models (black, grey, blue) – currently closed. Cross is a bit flat below the 12 marker, movement finishing isn’t great, but overall a great rep. 8F is good.

Overseas generation 2 reference 47040

JJF Factory is no longer making these, but in general had a good rep if you find it on M2M. Their v2 was superior to their v1.

MKS Factory – seems to take cues from JJF. Best models are the grey and blue models. Gen-like thickness.

Known flaws: Black and white dials have different dial patterns than gen. The triangles/pyramids should be stacked on top of each other, but they are instead offset between rows. Grey dial bezel should be titanium, but appears to be painted (unvetted claim). All models have a flat cross below 12, gen has a nicely beveled cross

Overseas generation 3 reference 4500V

ZF Factory for all references. No other factory comes close. I used to list BP Factory, but ZF blows them out of the water.

Chronometre Royal 1907: MKS factory for all models. Good not great rep.

Patrimony reference 85150: 3 main factories: AIF, MKS, and FKF. Not enough comparisons between models, but both MKS and FKF are very good.

Fiftysix reference 4600: ZF for all references.

Fiftysix complete calendar: ZF, MXF ( may have day alignment issues – right justified)

Historique reference 86300: GSF for all models. Not great, but good rep

All other references – check the TD listings for other models available, but most are either too thick, or have other significant flaws.


5. Richard Mille Credit — u/LibrarySquidLeland
RM011: KVF – thick but best deco, older models for thinner cases but worse deco. Glossy ceramic instead of matte, carbon fiber reinforced plastic instead of NTPT

RM035: ZF – real NTPT, closest to 1:1 size and proportions, v4 for absolute best, but all acceptable

RM055: BBR Factory has a ‘clone’ movement, and overall great execution. ZF – real ATZ matte ceramic case, closest to 1:1 size and proportions

RM027: EURF – serviceable tourbillon movement

RM056: EURF – sapphire bezels, plastic midcase, serviceable tourbillon movement

RM052 Skull: JBF – sometimes branded as ZF, serviceable tourbillon movement, out of production. EURF model may be available from some sources, may be same thing as JBF (unconfirmed)

RM012: KVF – thick case and weird deco, but real tourbillon. May be serviceable movement

RM68: RR Factory

RM010: RR Factory

RM07: RM Factory – including bon-bon model


6. Omega — Omega Buying Guide
Seamaster: All permutations – VSF (now closed), ORF, OMF

Aqua Terra: VSF, OMF

Diver 300M: VSF, OMF

Planet Ocean: VSF, MKF

Speedmaster Racing: HRF

DeVille 33mm: UVS Factory

No Time to Die Seamaster: VSF, ORF

Deville Dew Drop 33mm: 3S Factory

Tresor Quartz 39mm: 3M Factory

Deville 36mm: HR Factory

Speedmaster 57: OMF (but not great)

Deville Prestige 39mm: ZF


7. Iced-Out Watches (aka buss down, diamond-studded)
Send these links to your TD of choice and have them price it and source it for you. Most of these are smaller batches and don’t always have a ‘factory name’. The stones are typically CZ.

Audemars Piguet:

15400 iced out https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 3130002175

Another 15400 iced out https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 1890003593

Rose gold 15400 https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 1890001004

Rose gold different strap 15400 https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 1890009695

Rolex:

Rolex Submariner iced out green (also comes in blue and all diamonds) https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 6710001752

Datejust arabic dial https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 4280002114

Datejust lume indices https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 4280001668

Daytona Rainbow, comes in both RG and YG https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 5930003330

Daytona Rainbow, in WG (stainless steel) https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 5930002112

Patek:

Nautilus emerald green bezel https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 4310002305

Nautilus diamonds https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 4310001101

Cartier:

Iced out arabic Cartier https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 0420001992

Iced out roman Cartier https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 0420001992

Iced out white dial https://a202004241438341790100492.szweg ... 6510002942


8. Cartier – credit to u/pvm_april and u/KOUJIROFRAU
Santos (2018) 35mm or 40mm: GF for steel, BVF for two-tone or gold. GF has fixed their crystals in the most recent batches, and is the only one with a consistently gen-like bracelet. GF > BVF > V6F > 3KF. Important note: GF has been noted to have some screws fall off, whereas BVF does not seem to have this issue on the bracelet.

All AF Cartier reps are top tier, but they are not as active as some other factories, so alternatives are listed.

Tank Solo: AF; K11F decent alternative.

Tank Must (2021): F1.

Tank Francaise: 8848F.

Ballon Bleu 33mm or 36mm: AF with Cal.076 or quartz; 3KF with Cal.076, or V6F with quartz are decent alternatives. Recommended to avoid models with Seiko NH05. Ballon Bleu 28mm or 42mm: AF; V6F decent alternative.

Panthere: GF for steel, BVF for two-tone or gold.
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